Southern Italy. A land of blue sky and sea. In the mornings, we wake flushed and humid, kick off twisted white sheets, open wooden shuttered doors onto the hot tiled vernada. We have mate tea outside, watching white sails go by. At 8am the day already shimmers. The dog growls at a lizard as it flitters across the white stones. We decide to go to Panarea today, the smallest of the Aeolians, it’s only 3km by 1.5km. We get the ferry and sail across and land in the tiny chic village, terraced with hidden hotels, boutiques, a place that makes leather shoes, an organic hotel where Andrew is keen to lunch. He finds the hotel, the restaurant sits high above the water, we lunch in the wind under white arches, eating from blue plates, the waitresses all wearing breezy blue dresses. After we take a golf cart taxi through white-walled alleys to Zimmari beach. From there, we walk up the gnarled outcrops of rock atop Punta Milazzese and cacti to the villaggio preistorico, a Bronze age village of huts and stone walls, an area inhabited since the 14th B.C. We’re searing in the sun, walk down stone steps to the quiet and secluded Cala Junca, a spectacular stony cove and stone beach, where we throw off clothes and dive into the turquoise water.